I am a 70 year old climber based in the UK trying to be a little more systematic in my training. I recently bought a copy of your Logical Progression book - all very helpful, A question if i may -- on page 58 where you talk about Features of a Limit boulder problem, one of your bullet points says '2 or 3 hard moves out of a total of no more than ten moves.' does that mean attempting a boulder when you can only do 2 or 3 hard moves to start with and have to 'work' the rest...could you help clarify what you mean...love your stuff.
Thank you for getting in touch. I apologize for the confusion. I have had another question about this specific recommendation and have addressed it in the second edition of the book. Also will be going into more detail as the third edition comes forward later this year. You are correct… we just want to have the ability to do a portion of anything that is a limit level problem and it should be difficult enough that we can slowly see progress. Often, climbers will consider anything. They don't onsight a limit level problem, and this is simply not intense enough. Although some climbers prefer to make a season long project there personal limit session, I like to prescribe problems that you can do in 2 to 4 sessions.
Super helpful. I tried to order the log book, but it wouldn’t send to the UK, which is odd as both the book and a couple of T shirts have. I’ve taken your advice and improvised my own with a squared paper notebook..
Trust all is well with you and thanks again for the prompt reply.
Hi Steve,
I am a 70 year old climber based in the UK trying to be a little more systematic in my training. I recently bought a copy of your Logical Progression book - all very helpful, A question if i may -- on page 58 where you talk about Features of a Limit boulder problem, one of your bullet points says '2 or 3 hard moves out of a total of no more than ten moves.' does that mean attempting a boulder when you can only do 2 or 3 hard moves to start with and have to 'work' the rest...could you help clarify what you mean...love your stuff.
Hello John,
Thank you for getting in touch. I apologize for the confusion. I have had another question about this specific recommendation and have addressed it in the second edition of the book. Also will be going into more detail as the third edition comes forward later this year. You are correct… we just want to have the ability to do a portion of anything that is a limit level problem and it should be difficult enough that we can slowly see progress. Often, climbers will consider anything. They don't onsight a limit level problem, and this is simply not intense enough. Although some climbers prefer to make a season long project there personal limit session, I like to prescribe problems that you can do in 2 to 4 sessions.
I hope this helps!
Super helpful. I tried to order the log book, but it wouldn’t send to the UK, which is odd as both the book and a couple of T shirts have. I’ve taken your advice and improvised my own with a squared paper notebook..
Trust all is well with you and thanks again for the prompt reply.