Precision
Optimizing your training might be holding you back.
Simple things work. Some complex things can help. Smart people tend to be more interested in the complex things, because the simple things don’t inspire. In my life as a coach, I’ve seen my fair share of complicated spreadsheets, weight systems that can adjust down to the ounce, and thousand-dollar strain gauges in home gyms.
Just recently, I received a critique of an article I had written where the writer explained that using a counterweight system for one arm pull-up practice would “work better” than my suggestion of taking some weight off by holding a sling, wrapped around the bar, with the other hand.
I asked how he knew that.
He said it made sense because it was more precise.
I asked if it was easier to shoot a flying duck with a rifle or a shotgun.
He didn’t understand what I meant.
James Clear wrote:
“We love to obsess over tactics and strategies that make the last 10% of difference.
For example: Didn’t have a good workout?
Well then, let’s debate all of the reasons why it could have been something other than you. Maybe you need to have your post–workout protein shake 30 minutes after working out instead of 60 minutes after working out. Maybe you need to get a better pair of shoes. Or a belt. Or a sweat–wicking shirt. Or knee sleeves.
What’s incredible is that these are things we actually waste time on! I’ve heard all of those crazy excuses mentioned in conversations. I’ve even said some of them myself.
Why? Because it’s easier to waste time debating the last 10% of improvement than it is to just do the thing that makes 90% of the difference. It’s easier to claim that you need a better diet plan or a new workout template or different gear than it is to admit that what you really need is to not miss a workout for the next six months.
This same idea holds true for diets and nutrition, business and entrepreneurship, writing and art, and virtually any other endeavor we attempt. We want strategies that scale. We want tactics that are optimized. But eventually, you realize that the biggest difference between success and failure comes from mastering the fundamentals.
Maybe a faster computer will make Stephen King a better writer … because he has already mastered the fundamentals of writing every day.
Maybe optimal meal timing will make an Olympic swimmer a better athlete … because she has already mastered the fundamentals of eating healthy and training hard.
Maybe a better guitar will make Eric Clapton a better musician … because he has already mastered the fundamentals of playing consistently.
But for most of us, the final 10% of optimization will rarely lead to the difference we’re looking to achieve.”
Worrying about testing with a strain gauge means nothing if you aren’t effectively training for strength. Testing strength takes 5 minutes and gives us a dopamine response. Training for strength takes several hours each week and sometimes doesn’t give measurable results for months.
Thinking on which program is best and closely following all the social media of those testing out new ways to train might be entertaining, but it’s not going to help you get better. It’s heartbreaking when you learn that just getting to sleep each night by 10 might outpace your BFR gains.
Movement speed, quasi-isometrics, double-regressed periodized cycles, weekly Lattice testing, supplements, fad diets, and even $250 shoes (the best investment in this list) only help a little bit. What does help?
Be fierce.
Be confident.
Be open to doing climbs that don’t suit you.
Be brave.
Try hard.
Get some sleep.
Eat the right things and avoid the wrong things (and if you don’t know these, ask a 3rd grader).
Train hard, at a level you respect, but don’t fear.
Most of all, go climbing.